Tuesday, February 06, 2007


This is a bit of techy-climbing post, non-climbers can safely skip it!

Someone on UKC had asked about monopoints vs. dual points. I've used monos for basically all my ice climbing over the last 6 years or so and think that in 90% of situations they are better on water ice. But one situation where they can be problematic is on relatively new ice that is still made up of a series of flutings. Monos can go between the flutings and fail to grip, and actually hiting the front of the fluting takes more accuracy than most of us punters can manage whilst pumped and scared. I've tried to illustrate this in the photo above. In this situation the increased damage that dual points do to the ice is actually an advantage as you in effect kick a foot hold. With mono points you need to rely on the secondary points to do that damage and its one of the very few times where I feel I actually stub my toes when kicking in crampons. Something for people to consider who are thinking of using monos and haven't tried it yet, but it's a pretty water-ice specific issue.

1 comment:

nikko said...

Was this an open invite to test those newfangled contraptions you've strapped to your boots? I'll swap them for my Footfangs. Heck, I could even lend you some leashes, lest you load your screamers too frequently. :)