Thursday, March 03, 2011

Triple rated ropes - and some spring sunshine ice.

New ropes!
I've just started reviewing a group of ropes for UKC, which are (if you are a climber at least) pretty interesting. We are looking at triple rated ropes; that are tested and certified to be used as a single, double or twin rope. I've got to try a Beal Joker 9.1; a Mammut Serenity and an Edelrid Swift (both 8.9). I think these routes are pretty versatile and will become increasingly popular in the next few years.

Across the lake

Today was a beautiful day so Eärendal agreed to a quick trip out to Nuuksio for a few routes - a sort of warm up before our trip to Norway next week.

Here E is leading one of the easier routes using the Edelrid Swift as a single.

We then went down to the main sector I led Oikea Suora. Here the Beal and Edelrid are being used as doubles.

E descending after our ascent of Oikea Suora. The route is fantastic condition now. I was quite chuffed that I managed it without any great drama.

We then went and did the far-left pillar thats has a funky free hanging start currently. Here E is just reaching the belay.

Sari leading on the Mammut Serenity and her rope a couple of weeks back at Klöverberget

So fingers crossed for decent weather and condition in Norway next week, then I'll have a chance to really give the ropes a good use. And for the Helsinki climbers, people have been telling me that the normally super reliable One Point Gully has been ice free all winter, but it isn't any longer. I led it today placing three screws. The ice is thin and a funky - I guess the result of snow melt at the top rather than the normal spring feed. In fact a number of easier routes at that left sector are now climbable. I soloed the slab to the left of the line that Eärendal is leading in the picture above on thin but solid ice, for example.

3 comments:

Runar said...

Where in Norway are you going?

Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

Hi Runar - the plan is Skibotn/Lyngen/Kåfjord area for the first half and Spansdalen for the second half of the week. Are you in Norway? I hear things aren't great in some areas in the South, but some contacts are already up North and getting lots of stuff done - see: http://jrb-jim.blogspot.com/

Runar said...

Cool! Sounds like a great plan.
I'm in Norway. Oslo right now. So Rjukan is my main spot of ice fun. Haven't been to Lyngen, but it looks really good. Looking forward to you posts about the trip.

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