Monday, June 07, 2010

Climbing at Angelniemi

Angelniemi is a crag for all season - the most reliable ice around Salo in winter and some great sport climbing in summer. Anni, Tony and I went over from Helsinki and met Dave who was coming from the west.

I decided that if I want to get some good photos it time to get serious and try something a bit more technical so took a spare rope and jumars with me. I'm pretty happy with the results and, to be honest, jugging up and sliding down the rope a few times was good fun.

Dave on Lähetysseura ("The Mission") 7a+

Dave and Tony both put in cracking efforts to climb this very nice looking route up a fine red wall of granite.

Dave again on Lähetysseura, 7a+

Tony's turn, same route

Lähetysseura from below. 20 metres of powerful and balancy granite wall climbing.

Tony on Kaisanprojekti ("Kaisa's Project"), 6b

I fell off the crux of Kaisanprojekti last year and bashed my hip up, so both wanted to do it and was a bit scared of it at the same time. A long sling clip-sticked to the crux bolt sorted that out and I found a ridiculously tenuous stemming method to avoid laybacking the crux that I'm to pathetically weak to do. I got it on my third redpoint attempt including the use of the the "crouching tiger, hidden dragon flying kung fu move" higher that totally made my day.


Tony said...

Some fine photos Toby. Your photos just keep getting better and better. Well done on your RP too.

Anonymous said...

Well done to all! I was just wondering whether "clip-stick" method is the same as the "stick-clip" method?

Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

> I was just wondering whether "clip-stick" method is the same as the "stick-clip" method?

Indeed it is and your method works much better in the past tense. With my butchering of the English language I had to resist writing "clip stuck". "Stick-clipped" is much more elegant. :-)

nikko said...

Nice pics.

Jugging is a wonderful way to bypass all the dificulties of rock climbing. Providing someone reliable sets your rope on a multi-pitch climb..

Ah, also a frown on the quickdraws clipped together on the first image of Dave on Lähetysseura.