Sunday, October 14, 2007

Sunny autumn days

Cool and sunny autumn days are my favourite for rock climbing. Getting numb finger tips a little is a fair trade off against the sweaty-palmed slipperiness of high summer. Yesterday at Haukkakallio was a grand day, about 4 degrees, but not a cloud to be seen or a breath of wind. The cliff is rapidly becoming the best cliff on the south coast of Finland, with already about 40 or 50 routes ranging from Vdiff (Finnish 3+) to Rami's masterful creation, King's Cross, which is 8a+, but on trad gear, and Rami led it placing the gear as he went - so presumably in E7 6c territory?
Uncle Tony's Testimonial VS 4c

Jody's recently bolted "Air Arete" 5+, a fine and rather odd sports route. Physically easy but very fall off-able. A bit like a rounded gritstone arete, just with bolts.

Fresh coffee at the crag courtesy of my new and pretty cool stove. And yes that is a nut key, I remembered everything but a spoon.

Aussie Simon stylin' on the first ascent of "Simon Says", Finnish 6+, E2 5c-ish?

The Road to Zion VS 4c

And just to be very web 2.0, here is the movie version of the day. I'm in two minds as to whether to buy a cheap digi video camera to get better quality film clips than my little digi camera manages, but then I might just be more encouraged to release more of my "creativity" onto the world and perhaps it doesn't really need that.


It was great to see another team of four there repeating all of our routes and seeming to enjoy them. I'm sorry I didn't get your names guys - but if you contact me by either leaving a comment here, or via a message through the Slouppi forums, I can send you copies of the various pics I took of you lot.

5 comments:

lara said...

Lack of logic (?) comment:
I don't know a heck about rock climbing or politics. However, some other bits of (your)life make your blog worth reading to me. Thanks for that. A lot. It's interesting. But please don't overdo with videos =)

Anonymous said...

If its 8a/8a+ its more like E8 7a

Jody

Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

Not necessarily so. Requiem (Dumby) is E8 6b, and although steeper and longer, it is a crack with decent gear, and that is 8a+ as well. There might be a English 7a move on King's Cross if its very cruxy, but it doesn't look like that does it?

Katie W said...

I have a proper digi cam that I've used to make a couple of climbing films. It's really good fun. I also find it can get rid of my frustrations if I'm not climbing well, as I know something good will come out of the day.
All my videos are on my blog if you want a look.

Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

Will check them out Katie, but now I have conflicting advice - you being supportive of my burgeoning film making career, whilst Lara a few comments higher saying "NOOOooooo! Enough with the films!" What's a man to do? :-)

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