Torque nut testing

I went out climbing at Kauhala the other night with Diana. Climbing with D is great because it's possible she actually chunters on more than me when nervous and trying hard and, indeed, even when not. So that's saying something. And being Californian it of course comes out as a stream of consciousness in a Hunter S. Thompson-esque way. One moment she is berating the utter inadequacies of the American healthcare system as she has seen it first hand, then it is the superb "hmmm... I seem to be having nebulous commitment issues..." whilst sketching on incredibly thin holds some way above the bolt. I normally can't get much more existential than "oh... fuckerty fuck fuck".

No nebulous commitment issues now. D on Kaikenalku, 6a.

After some sport routes I knew I had to do something where I could try out the new Torque Nuts, so in the gathering gloom I donned a headtorch and set off up Don't Layback Crack.

Torque nuts ago-go

Some years ago this little route scalped Jody, trapping his foot for some time, leading to much panic and an eventual leader fall. I fared little better this time, and found out as I pulled over the top it had, amongst various other scratches and scrapes, bitten a chunk out of the inside of my right index finger on one of the jams which still hurts now, and the one of those pretty new torque nuts that I hadn't placed whilst climbing is now blotched with blood. I hope the UKC readers know I doing this for them! :-)